Falaises de Corse
Sport Climbing in Corsica
(fifth edition march 2015 / 352 pages / ISBN : 978-2-9526-3886-9)
It is no easy task to create a guidebook. Each detail must be thought out ; the result is in your hands, the brainchild of all our passion and careful attention.

This guide lists almost all the sport crags of the island. It provides all the necessary information to climb in confidence: access, type of climbing, height of the routes, grades... To make it more precise we have generally drawn the routes on pictures.
Thanks to the countless pictures of climbers the reader can dream while preparing for his next vertical adventures and have a good idea of each crag.

It was in june 2006 that we received from our printer the copies of the first edition of this guide. Six years hence, already we are on the fourth edition. It has today 336 pages ! The rhythm of a re-edition every second year is now established ; this allows us sufficient time to upgrade the guide and keep it up to date.

By clicking on the crag’s name that interests you, you ‘ll find its main characteristic and the last information that climbers wrote about it (the figure on the right of each crag inform you of the presence of comment).




Name of the cliff City Number of routes Comments
1 - REGION DE BASTIA / CAP / CASTAGNICCIA
1 : A Torra di Seneca Luri 9 routes from grade 4 to 7b+ 2
2 : E Torre Brandu 13 routes from grade 5c to 6c+ 4
3 : Petre Scritte Brandu 19 routes from grade 4 to 6c+
4 : Capu Sacru Brandu Climbing is forbidden (specific bylaw) 1
5 : Monte Canarincu Barbaggio 20 routes from grade 3 to 7a (mostly at grade 4)
6 : Pignu A Serra Barbaggio 28 routes from grade 3 to 6c+ 1
7 : Pignu Antennes Barbaggio 34 routes from grade 5 to 7b+ 1
8 : Pignu U Topu Barbaggio 5 routes from grade 5 to 8a
9 : Pignu face à la mer Barbaggio 16 routes from grade 6a to 7b
10 : U Tipponu Barbaggio 21 routes from grade 3 to 7a+
11 : A Tozza Patrimoniu 22 routes from grade 5c to 7b+ 2
12 : Altiplano (mini-Utah) Oletta 32 routes from grade 5c to 7b 1
13 : psicobloc Citadelle San Fiurenzu bouldring above the sea
14 : Monte San Angelo Monte Silvareccio 32 routes from grade 5 to 8a+
15 : Alisgiani Cervione 17 routes from grade 4c to 7
2 - REGION DE BALAGNE
1 : Bonifatu Calenzana 18 routes (one pitch) et 13 small multipitch routes 2
2 : Suare Calenzana 31 routes from grade 5 to 7b+ 6
3 : La Bibli Calvi 17 routes from grade 4c to 8b
4 : Lumiu Lumiu 17 routes from grade 4a to 6c+ 5
5 : I Curriali Santa Reparata 29 routes from grade 3a to 8a 2
6 : Les Iles L'Isula Rossa 14 routes from grade 3a to 6b
3 - REGION DE PORTO
1 : I Monti Ortu 10 single-pitch routes and 12 multi-pitch routes 3
2 : la Lonca Ota We expect around 25 routes on this new crag under bolting.
3 : Ambata di melu Portu 1 multi-pitch route
4 : Plage de Portu Portu 29 routes from grade 5 to 7a 1
4 - REGION DU CENTRE CORSE
1 : Pietralba Pietralba 19 routes from grade 5 to 8a+ 4
2 : Trimbulacciu Ascu 22 routes from grade 6a to 7c and 1 four-pitch route 2
3 : Cuccia Cuccia 31 routes from grade 4 to 7a
4 : e Radule Col de Vergio 28 routes from grade 4 to 6b
5 : Caporal Philipps Col de Vergio 15 routes from grade 4 to 6a
6 : Francardu Francardu 79 routes from grade 5 to 8a 1
7 : Caporalinu Omessa 75 routes from grade 4 to 7c and 3 multipitch routes 2
8 : Restonica - L'ortale Corti 44 routes from grade 4 to 7c
9 : Restonica - L'oratoire Corti 11 routes from grade 4c to 7a
10 : Restonica - Picellu Corti 55 routes from grade 5 to 8c 2
11 : Restonica - Candide et Bigoudaine Corti 24 routes from grade 5c to 7b+ and 3 short multipitch routes 2
12 : Restonica - Tuani Corti 10 routes from grade 5c to 7a
13 : Restonica - secteur PGHM Corti 11 routes from grade 5c to 6c
14 : Restonica - Sorbellu Corti 66 routes7 from grade 5a to 7c+ 2
15 : Restonica - U Muséu Corti 11 routes from grade 6a to 8a
16 : Restonica - Frassetta Corti 10 route from grade 6c to 8a+ 1
17 : Restonica - Icare Corti 4 route from grade 5c to 7c
18 : Restonica - A Tomba et Miller Corti 9 route from grade 6a to 8a 1
19 : Restonica - secteur Camille Corti 5 routes from grade 4c to 6c
20 : Restonica - Grand pilon Corti 5 short two-pitch routes at grade 6.
21 : Restonica - Chez Théo Corti 9 routes from grade 6a+ to 7c and 1 multi-pitch route
22 : Verghellu Venacu 39 routes from grade 4 to 7b+
5 - REGION D'AJACCIO
1 : U Rupione Purtichju 13 routes from grade 4 to 6b 3
2 : A Reta (Paratta) Aiacciu 9 routes from grade 4c to 7a
3 : la Terre Sacrée Aiacciu 24 routes from grade 4 to 7c 1
4 : Barbicaghja Aiacciu 28 routes from grade 4c to 7b
5 : Saint-Antoine Aiacciu 84 routes from grade 3 to 7c 3
6 : l'Echappatoire Aiacciu 14 routes from grade 5 to 6c+ (trad climbing)
7 : Rocher des Gozzi Appiettu Afà 75 routes from grade 3 to 8a and 9 multi-pitch routes 1
8 : Monte Latu Ocana 20 routes from grade 3c to 6c+ and 4 multi-pitch routes
9 : A Richjusa Bucugnà 113 routes from grade 4 to 8a+ 1
6 - REGION DU TARAVO
1 : Col de la Tana Col de la Tana 62 routes from grade 4 to 6c (one to four pitches) 1
2 : Macà Croci Macà Croci 50 routes from grade 5c to 7b
3 : Valdu di Saltu Pitretu Bicchisgia more than 300 boulder problems
4 : Petra Piombu Livesi 47 routes from grade 5c to 9a+ 2
5 : Zicavu Zicavu 31 routes from grade 4 to 6c
7 - REGION DU GRAND SUD
1 : U Castellu Chisà 39 routes from grade 4 to 7a
2 : Monte Santu Sari 50 routes from grade 4 to 8c? 3
3 : Punta Calcina Conca 58 routes from grade 4+ to 7b+ 2
4 : A tyroliana Santa Lucia di Portivechju 17 routes from grade 5a to 8a+
5 : Ponte Grossu Quenza 21 routes from grade 5c to 8a
6 : le Barring Quenza 15 routes from grade 5c+ to 8c+
7 : 3G Quenza 20 routes from grade 6b+ to 8c
8 : A Vacca Quenza 16 routes from grade 4c to 6c 1
9 : Mescaline Quenza 8 routes from grade 7a to 8c
10 : Arghjavara Quenza 5 multi-pitch routes
11 : la Baraka Quenza 9 routes from grade 5c to 9a+?
12 : Bavella Quenza 205 routes at all grade and a few short multi-pitch routes 4
13 : Piscia di Ghjaddu Ospédale 3 four-pitch route
14 : Capineru Pianottuli bouldering near the sea
15 : Punta di Tichjonu Ghjunchettu 9 routes from grade 4 to 6b
Total : 77 cliffs et 2400 routes (2 spots of boulder et 62 multi pitch routes). -> See last comments